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I Made It!

September 23, 2012

After weeks of effort I finally seem to have gotten the knack for

Popovers

popovers. Ideally, you’d have a popover pan like this one, but if you don’t the outer ten cups of a twelve-cup muffin tin can do in a pinch.

First thing when you wake up, set out three eggs and measure a cup of milk. Go take care of other things while letting them come to room temperature.

When they’ve warmed up, melt a tablespoon of butter and set it aside to cool for a bit. Whisk together the eggs and milk in a large bowl for about twenty seconds until they’re well mixed. Whisk together a cup of flour and half a teaspoon of salt in another bowl and stir it into the milk and eggs with a rubber spatula until just combined and still lumpy. Add the melted butter and whisk it all together for about thirty seconds. The batter should be smooth, with some tiny bubbles. Set it aside to rest for half an hour.

In the meantime, put half a teaspoon of vegetable oil in each cup of your popover pan (or the outer ten of the muffin tin). Place it on the lowermost rack of your oven and move all the other racks as high as you can. With the pan inside, heat the oven to 450 ºF — with practice you can get the timing right so it’s ready just when the batter is done resting.

Now, work quickly to divide the batter among the cups. There’s a little more than two cups total, so a third-cup measure works as a good first approximation, if you’re using a popover pan. But don’t worry about filling the measure; it’s easier just to even out the cups at the end. Also, though I’ve seen it suggested, don’t transfer the batter from the large bowl to another one you can pour from; I’m not exactly sure why, but it seems the more you agitate the batter at this stage the more likely you are to end up with something with a more bready and less custardy texture.

So, still working quickly, put the pan back in the 450 ºF oven for twenty minutes, then turn the heat down to 350 ºF for fifteen to eighteen more minutes to brown. And do not open the door until maybe the very end if you need to check the browning. Turn the popovers out onto wire racks to cool for a couple minutes before serving hot.

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